Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Simon, However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. Richard. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. . And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Can anything be done to rectify the situation. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! It almost feels like cheating. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. Simon quick question. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. Hi Calvin, Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. Ill ask. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. It is another interesting approach. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Wonderful. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. Includes access to the digital magazine. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. Coats Read More The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Simon. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. Thank you very much for your assistance. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? Thanks for your time, JK. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? If the later, have you seen any examples? The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Hi Ethan, I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. Alex Natt. Kind Regards W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. shoes, shirts, etc.)? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Apparel & clothing. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. Really great blog. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Thanks for your reply Simon. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. Thanks Simon. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. As this can take a year or so? A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. thanks! I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Creating a Costume From and To Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image! Thank you in advance. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? Hi, I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. And looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a hip! 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